The Olfactory Families

Perfumers group fragrances into olfactory families according to their dominant character. Knowing which families you enjoy is the quickest way to find new scents you'll like, and to choose which samples to try next. Here are the eight families you'll meet most often, with examples from our catalogue you can sample in 1 to 10 ml decants.

Citrus

Bright, sparkling and uplifting, citrus fragrances are built on bergamot, lemon, mandarin, orange and grapefruit. They open fast and feel clean and energetic, which makes them favourites for summer, the gym and the office. The trade-off: citrus notes are volatile, so pure citrus scents tend to fade sooner. Try Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza, Acqua di Parma Mandarino di Sicilia or Versace Man Eau Fraîche.

Aromatic and fougère

Aromatic fragrances use herbs such as lavender, rosemary, sage and mint. The fougère ("fern") is the classic masculine structure: lavender on top, a soft heart, and a base of oakmoss and coumarin (the hay-like, slightly sweet note of tonka bean). Most modern "fresh blue" men's fragrances belong here. Try Dior Sauvage EDT, Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male or Prada Luna Rossa Carbon.

Woody

Woody fragrances are grounded in cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, patchouli and, increasingly, oud. They feel warm, dry and calm, and they usually last well on skin. Woods also form the base of most fragrances in other families. Try Lalique Encre Noir Sport, Bvlgari Man Wood Neroli or Dior Homme 2020.

Amber (oriental)

Once called "oriental", the amber family is rich and enveloping: vanilla, resins, benzoin, labdanum and warm spices such as cinnamon, cardamom and saffron. These are evening and cold-weather fragrances with strong projection and longevity, and they're a speciality of Middle Eastern perfume houses. Try Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Le Parfum, Afnan 9pm or Al Haramain Amber Oud Bleu Edition.

Floral

The largest family in perfumery. Florals can centre on a single flower (a soliflore, such as rose) or a bouquet of jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose, iris and peony. They range from fresh and airy to rich and creamy. Try Yves Saint Laurent Libre Intense, Lattafa Fakhar Rose or Giorgio Armani Light di Gioia.

Aquatic

Aquatic (or marine) fragrances evoke sea air, salt and water, often with calone and ambroxan-type notes over a fresh, woody base. They became iconic in the 1990s and remain the go-to for hot days. Try Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò Profondo, Nautica Voyage or Bvlgari Aqva Pour Homme Marine.

Gourmand

Gourmand fragrances smell edible: coffee, praline, caramel, chocolate, honey and tonka bean. They are comforting, sweet and often very long-lasting, and they pair naturally with amber and vanilla. Try Lattafa Khamrah Qahwa (coffee and praline) or Armaf Hunter.

Chypre

Named after the island of Cyprus, the chypre structure contrasts a fresh citrus opening (usually bergamot) with a mossy, woody base of oakmoss and patchouli, often with a floral or fruity heart. Chypres feel elegant and slightly bittersweet. Try Chloé Nomade.

How to use the families to choose samples

Look at two or three fragrances you already love and note which families they share. Then sample one fragrance from the same family and one from a neighbouring family: citrus sits next to aromatic and aquatic, woody next to amber, amber next to gourmand. Order 1 ml or 2 ml decants, wear each for a full day, and write down what you notice after one hour and after six. Within a few samples you will know which families suit you, which ones you love only in summer or winter, and which bottles are worth buying in full. Browse men's fragrance samples, women's perfume samples or our Middle Eastern selection.